As a boy growing up in small-town Amravati, Lalam Mandavkar would encounter trains almost every day as his school was just across the railway lines. What held his fascination as the behemoths went clickety-clack on the tracks was the visceral thrill of the lonesome whistle, the locomotive noisily building up steam pressure and the moribund signalling system suddenly crackling to life.The childhood enchantment with the Indian Railways has grown into a passion for Mandavkar, a production engineer in Pune. He is one of the country’s several railway enthusiasts, or railfans as they are called, who indulge (rather quirkly sometimes) in train travel, visiting stations and tracks, studying timetables, writing travelogues, shooting photographs and videos, and even jotting down the numbers on locos and coaches.In the railways, these numbers are at the core of communication, helping drivers and “safaiwallahs” identify which loco or coach they need to go to. With the increase...
more... in the number of trains over the years, the three-digit numbers have now gone up to five digits, says Mandavkar. Today, Mandavkar focuses a lot on rail photography, having drawn inspiration from hardcore railfan Apurva Bahadur’s spectacular shots of trains chugging along scenic landscapes. The city-based Bahadur says the train is most times just a beautiful object in his images. He and other railfans can be regularly found at the stunningly picturesque Shindawane ghat near Urulikanchan on the Pune-Miraj line, observing and shooting trains that snake in and out of tunnels, ride over girder bridges and negotiate tricky curves and slopes. Bahadur’s photo sessions often call for paring down on a night’s sleep to capture a train in the subtle light of the rising sun.The credit goes to railfans for making Shindawane village, which has a population of just around 5,000, among the most popular railway locations in the world. Just Google ‘Shindawane’ and you will know, says Mandavkar.Other popular railfanning locations are Daundaj, also on the Pune-Miraj line, where the tracks follow a giant horseshoe curve; Adarki on the same line which has two horseshoe curves, two tunnels and many deep cuttings; and, the Konkan Railway between Mumbai and Mangalore where a plethora of tunnels, rivers, viaducts and picture-perfect sceneries presents a veritable vista. Then there’s the well-known Bhor ghat section between Lonavala and Karjat, which has steep gradients and curves, continuous traffic on three tracks and an interesting history. The construction of this section along with the Thul ghat line between Kalyan and Igatpuri in the late 19th century is an engineering marvel that sadly also took a toll on the human labour involved — 24,000 workers reportedly died during the decade-long work due to illnesses or tragedies like rock fall. Labour uprising and squabbling between construction contractors were rife too. Urologist Shirish Yande, another railfan from the city, is saddened at the meter gauge and narrow gauge tracks losing out to broad gauge in the country, although this means modernisation of the Indian Railways. Today, meter gauge tracks constitute only 3% of the Indian rail network while narrow gauge is even less at 1.8%. The smaller lines had an inherent charm, he says.But Yande finds the huge variety of signalling systems, tractions and colour liveries of rakes on the railways simply mind-boggling. He points to a number of trains that carry a great history such as the Punjab Mail, Mumbai-Howrah Mail via Allabahad and the Golden Temple (Frontier) Mail. Among mountain trains, the beautiful Swiss-made steam locomotive of the meter-gauge Nilgiri Mountain Railway and the mini-gauge Darjeeling Himalayan Rail never fail to impress.Meanwhile, the Deccan Queen remains an eternal favourite for several railfans in Pune and Mumbai. Bahadur commends it for its unique dining car and rock solid punctuality. For the others, he says, any train is great as long as there is movement.